Delectable kebabs, aromatic biryani, and airy, ethereal desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has forever been a dream destination for epicures, with locals and visitors alike swearing by its superb cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
Last month, UNESCO honored it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – placing it on a prestigious list of international urban centers and kindling hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's peerless food. With this designation, it joins a international community of cities metropolises across over 100 countries dedicated to promoting "innovation as a driver of city development that is sustainable".
The accolade "is a testament to its centuries-old food heritage and vibrant gastronomic culture," as noted by a official from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to secure a position in this highly sought-after list of 70 cities worldwide.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The recognition for this venerable city comes as hardly a shock to its locals or dedicated food lovers. Many agree with the opinion that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO designation, this beloved, lively, and diverse city – the administrative center of India's largest state – is at last in the limelight for what has perennially shaped its essence: an immense passion for food.
"'What will be cooked, the method of preparation' is a constant conversation from waking up until night in most homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are often evaluated by the excellence of food that is produced in your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of the Nawabs – as it's widely known after its 18th and 19th Century affluent Muslim rulers – is renowned for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were conceived, perfected, and taken to sublime levels in their royal kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were centers of culinary innovations, fusing Iranian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were developed. As the tale is told that the galouti kebab was invented to feed an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His chefs minced the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and a blend of spices and made it so silky that it required no chewing.
But arguably the greatest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, slow heat, with the container's cover tightly sealed with a flour paste.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
In addition to the famous kebabs and biryani, the cooks also developed a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine doesn't just celebrates local ingredients but also gives the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Nearly on every corner, there are tiny kiosks and carts – little-known treasures that are extremely favored by the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, throngs of people start milling around from 5 am at a renowned tea stall to get a piping hot cup of spiced tea with milk, presented in clay glasses, along with fluffy buns slathered with freshly churned white butter.
To start the day, one can visit a unpretentious joint operating in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was founded, the place is still highly popular for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also offers unique seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert found in the winter. The method of making it is precise and demanding. The vendor whisks the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its unique airy feel.
On cold mornings, street vendors can be seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Many but say that their children are reluctant to learn the skill.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's profound food legacy puts it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will occur only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – shaped by generational food businesses, from humble street carts to lively restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The global recognition, it is hoped, will motivate more people worldwide to discover these narratives and visit the city to savour the food wonders of Lucknow.
